The Final Blog

And so the sun sets on another Tiwi Immersion Tour.

We have seen true beauty, both human and in our surrounding environment.  We have been challenged to think about Aboriginal Australia in different ways.

We have stood witness to many good news stories that rarely get picked up by the media.  We have learnt of connection to country which is so vital.

And we have been touched by the way Tiwi have welcomed and embraced us.  

In eight days we have visited four different remote communities.  We have learnt of the importance of language, culture, history, spirituality, economic independence and the central place of  family.

We have traveled a lot of dusty hot roads to discover that deep down there is  heck of a lot that we hold in common.  The challenges faced are immense but there is much reason to be hopeful.

I would like to thank St John's School Roma for making this trip possible.  The students have been outstanding ambassadors for the school and entered fully into the immersion tour.  We finish the week richer for the experience.  Mana.

Munupi Pottery, Closing a Gap and night swimming at Tiwi College

Today we visited the fourth of the Tiwi communities, Pirlangimpi.  This was the basis for "Mission Island" where the stolen generations were taken from the desert in the 1940s.  One of these children was the grandmother of Senator elect Nova Peris.  

The Roma mob gave their time in the morning doing more literacy testing.  Everything is about perspective.  The group was quite confronted by the low level of literacy in some students.  In the evening we caught up with Austin Wonaeamirri (former Melbourne Demons player and deputy captain for Tiwi Bombers).   This articulate and passionate young man told us with pride that at the beginning of this year one of the boys tested could only recognise 80 words.  This week he recognised 220!  However slow it may seem it is progress and something worth celebrating.  I am inspired that the Captain and Vice Captain of the Tiwi Bombers Team give their time in the learning and growing of strong Tiwi women and men at Tiwi College.

After a swim in the school waterfall the group kicked around a football and tried a few moves with local Tiwi on the trampolines.  Michael left a small piece of his rear ankle on the Tiwi College oval.  

 

We took in the art and amazing views of Pirlangimpi.  The picture above depicts Melville Island on the right and Bathurst on the left.  Last night when I asked Darcy to hand over his incredible photos he sheepishly admitted that he had taken in the night air and played with the camera at the local waterfall.  The results were stunning.  

We're on the home stretch now.  I am typing this from the porch of Bernard and Lynette's house in Wurrumiyanga (Bathurst Island).  This afternoon we get the boat back to Darwin and then take in the sights, smells and tastes of Mindel Beach.

Until then.

Buffalo, Bandicoots, brumbies, literacy tests, crabs and more shady cool spots

We started today doing some testing of students with a basic literacy test.  This was good on a couple of fronts.  The first is it helped out teachers and students.  The second is it gave us an insight into the challenges faced on Tiwi and also some interaction with Tiwi College students.

Speaking of interaction.  We spotted this beast on the way to Milikapiti.  Darcy as usual was the best shot with the camera.

 

This little guy (bandicoot) is our constant companion at night.  He is a permanent resident at the hospitality section of Tiwi College.

Because we spent time working with students at Tiwi College, it meant that some ladies from Milikapiti did the hard work for us and caught some Crabs, Mangrove worms and Long Bums.  Michael Lynch wins the exotic taste prize chowing down on a mangrove worm with Mark and Bernard.

These brumbies were spotted on our way back from the community of Milikapiti.  We visited Jilimara Arts center there.  There were some very impressive pieces of art, some going for as much as $6000.   And that was probably the mid range.  Darcy captured this bird created from a Buffalo horn.  Jilimara has also decorated cricket bats for Matthew Hayden and a surf board for Layne Beachley.

Mana (which is Tiwi for tomorrow)...

The legendary Sr Anne Gardiner, waterfalls to die for and learnings at Tiwi College

Welcome to Pickertaramoor, site of the incredible Tiwi College.  This will be our home away from home for the next 4 days.  We have to put up with this little waterfall every afternoon.  Please keep praying for us!

Earlier today we spent about an hour with Sr Anne Gardiner.  Anne is an OLSH sister who is approaching her 60th year on the Tiwi islands.  She is the curator of an incredible museum of Tiwi history and culture.  Her wise words will stay with many of us for a long time.  She is so compassionate and caring that she told Alex that he was a handsome young man.  We are having trouble fitting his ego in the Troopie every day now, but otherwise going fine.

Ian Smith, the Principal at Tiwi College shared part of the dream of the place with us.  A truly unique and magnificent project.  Building on Tiwi strengths  and working with a cultural base as a way to bring the power of change that education can offer.  For me one the exciting innovations is a "Growing Young Women" initiative focusing on supporting Tiwi women into the future.

We got to spend some time with Tiwi youngsters on the campus.  Some in the swimming holes and others that we spent this morning doing literacy testing with.

I am posting this blog from the third community that we visit, Milikapiti.  At the minute we are checking out the art centre.  Following lunch Bernard has promised us some crabs to take back with us.  Today there will be more bumpy roads, red dust and cool clear water.

Until next time.....

Attack of the killer leeches (not quite), the garden of eden, football and Church twice in one day!

So let's start at the beginning.  This is just one of many stunning shots that Darcy and Emily braved the sandflies for to capture the sun rising over Melville Island.  A long story, but somebody overheard us talking about sandflies and Darcy and Emily made an instant Roma / Mitchell connection with a lady living next door.  An hour and a half chat and we have fresh mangoes for breakfast!

We visited the old church which is decorated with some wonderful Tiwi artwork.  Some depicting the Creation story.  Bernard shared the Tiwi creation story with us when we visited the tiny outstation of Rangku today.  Next to the old church stands the radio house that Fr McGrath used to send a message to Darwin that the Japanese had just attacked Bathurst Island and were heading their way.

We also learnt of how local Tiwi man Mathias Ulungurra captured the first Japanese prisoner of war.

After a dusty journey to Rangku we spent a few hours in a waterfall and swimming hole to die for.  There was one slight negative.  The threat of leeches.  We had the trusty salt on hand, but it wasn't until we were headed for home that the little suckers struck.  Not too much blood was spilt and the cool clear waters were well worth the risk!  Speaking of risk, this photo was part of the risk assessment, we promise!  (Alex landed on his feet)

We then returned to the main community and watched a game of local Tiwi Island football league before heading to the open air church.   Two of the main religions on the islands!

Tomorrow the journey continues as we cross the Apsley Strait to Melville Island.  For me this photo sums up what has happened so far.  Friends made, looking after each other.  We move out of phone and possibly internet coverage tomorrow so these posts may be less frequent.  I will do my best.  Until then....

Off the beaten track, the Tiwi Great Ocean Road and Living off the land

On the edge of the Great Tiwi Bight

Today had a little bit of everything.  Red dust, warm air, powerful stories and even a tiny bit of salt water (but don't tell anyone!).  We set off to a place called Cape Fourcroy on the Western tip of Bathurst Island.  This is where Bernard and Lynette spend their bush holidays in June / July.  The red cliffs against the white sand are quite stunning and with a spring fed fresh water creek just up the beach why would you go anywhere else?

Postcard Perfect

Tiwi's very own Great Ocean Road

Julia lending a hand

Not too bad hey?  Some of us even got to paddle (very very carefully) in this amazing setting.  Some of our party were dissapointed that no crocs were sighted.  From a risk management point of view I was more than satisfied.  

Bernard and Lynette then spent some time describing Tiwi burial practices and how Tiwi live off the land in this part of the world.  Despite some less than smooth driving by Mark we all concluded the day with a refreshing dip in a local fresh waterhole.  The bruises from the road are yet to be revealed!

Bernard and Lynette sharing with students

Tomorrow we visit Rangku, the second of four communities that will be our focus this week.  Once again Lynette, Bernard and family will be our guides.  Until then....

Day One on Bathurst Island - Much to Challenge, Admire and Inspire

Emily and Alex with some young Tiwi on Bathurst Island

Nothing ever goes to plan up here - which is just as well.  The unplanned for things often turn out to be the highlights!  Turns out one of our party is an extraordinary photographer.  Darcy, take a bow!   It is incredible how a lens can focus and capture something which might otherwise be overlooked.  So all of the good photos in this blog are most probably Darcy's.  It was so hard to select just a few for today.

Despite the excitement of a broken down mini van and a totally booked out ferry we arrived in one piece on Bathurst Island this morning.  Bernard and Lynette met us.  We then were on the fringes of one of the largest funerals the Tiwi Islands has ever seen.  Local elder Walter Kerinauia passed away recently.  His life was celebrated today.  And when I say today I mean today.  The funeral started about 10.30 am and family and community were still dancing his dances and remembering his life at 4 pm before the grave side stage of the ceremony.   A great leader of his people and hunter was celebrated today.  A man with a good sense of humour and a vision that Tiwi should control their own destiny into the future.

Bella and Tiara getting to know each other

Mark then got the keys to our trusty (here's hoping) Troopie.  It will be our home for the next six days.  Lynette's grandchildren Tahlia and Tiara guided us to a local swimming hole where we all cooled down.  Despite the best efforts of young males and females of the species (human that is) there were no sightings of crocodiles. 

A shabby little water hole

 Following this we headed to the beach.  Nobody entered this water (Salties and Box Jellyfish are not on our to do list this week).  Darcy did however capture some of the beauty of the place.

Beach near Wurrumiyanga, Bathurst Island

We then returned to Sister Anne's where we are staying for three nights.  Sr Anne has been here for over half a century and is for me a walking definition of the word solidarity.  She also passionately supports the Sydney Swans and is a member of the Rabbitohs.  It was hard dragging Darcy inside.  He seems to be obsessed with this light show happening in the sky during the build up to the wet season.

Lightning off Bathurst Island

We also did a little house-keeping today, buying from the local supermarket.  Tomorrow we head bush with Bernard and Lynette to see how well we would go living off the land.

Until then....